So far my fav setup, i think it still needs some work from the settings it looks like itd be hard to corner but I havnt tuned a Mustang GT quite yet but when i do ill post setup on this site oh yea and get the rest of the tune ups

@Mr-Cat: I was thinking of coming back to it after I finish the DB9. As far as cornering goes what the settings don’t tell you is what happens at the apex when you open the throttle. If you tune than you know the deal, a little give and a little take… in this case I gave at the entry to take at the exit.

@TERRE: I am happy to hear that you liked it but wait till you see my DB9. I am still in the early stages of testing but I already pulled down a 7.01,xxx at Nurburgring () Which is a big deal for me since I lack skill in the driving department. That is 12 seconds better than this setup and the reason why I want to come back to this one and do more work!

Oh I forget to address the bad or good setups question.

That question is really tough to answer even though it seems like a simple yes or no. If we assume that a tuner gives his/her all to a setup and if we assume that the setup allows that tuner to win races than technically it is a “good setup”. In almost all cases the reason that a setup is “bad” is because of either (1) driving differences between the person who made the setup and the person that is testing it. Or (2) as you work on a setup you are unconsciously adjusting your driving for the car, so the setup may appear to the TUNER to be improving but it really isn’t.

In my experience most “bad” setups are caused by number one; however, there are plenty of tuners who post a setup that they spent hours of labor and love on that don’t work because of number two. In this case you will usually see major changes to the setup later; this happens because the tuner revisits the car and discovers it doesn’t work for them anymore.

When I do a setup, one that is a request or something I just want to do, I will pace myself and spread the work out over a few days. This helps to eliminate number two and as an added bonus it allows for continued improvement of the setup; and as any decent tuner will tell you even the best setup has room for improvement. If you don’t believe me just find a setup that is described as “perfect” by the person who tuned it and ask them to make some improvement, it doesn’t matter what. A good tuner will tell you that they will “check it out” and eventually get back to you with a reply, a “bad” tuner will tell you to go jump in the deep end of a lake.

So there really is not a yes or no answer to your question although there is one more category of setup I saved for last. This doesn’t happen often but from time to time you will see what I call an “ugly” setup. These are the ones where the tuner spent more time posting the setup than working on it. These are usually easy to spot as they will be almost stock settings or have some really wild numbers, such as front springs set to softest and back to hardest on an MR drivetrain.

Sorry this got so lengthy, but as I mentioned that is really a tough question to answer.

Actually I am not having a problem with the breaking ability of the car, have you tested it yet or are you just offering advice on the fly? No insult meant just an honest question.


As for tire wear I have not used this thing on a long run, but all the driving I did so far gives me great wear, the camber may seem high and in GT3 these settings would have murdered your tires but in GT4 the modeling seems to have vastly improved how tire wear actually works. Now you can use the camber to better effect without having to worry about paying a price that was too exuberant in GT3.

There is heavy wheel spin but that comes with the Mustang territory. The car is simply a beast, but I will be working on it as that is one more issue that needs to be addressed. In GT3 wheel spin was poorly handled and a tuner could get rid of it by adding TCS. Thankfully in GT4 they did a much better job of modeling wheel spin so TCS will work but at the cost of vast amounts of power, even in a straight.



As for nitrous I refuse to ever use it, I can’t see the point of it and in my opinion it serves the same purpose as ASM. It is there simply to help those who can’t race get an upper hand, besides injecting nitrous will only cause the wheels to spin more (as you pointed out) so why suggest it? Wheels spin when there is too much power and not enough grip, nitrous does nothing for grip it simply adds a burst of power that the car wouldn’t be able to deliver on its own in such a short time. If you want added grip without the power reducing effect of TCS than change tires, if you can’t change tires add weight. There are other solutions but this reply is getting just as long as the last one.

Now I have heard arguments about nitrous for cars that are too slow for the race they are in. I can’t buy into that argument either. Let’s face it there are 721 cars in this game and no one can honestly say they can’t get a hold of a car that is up to specs for the race in question.

One last thing I want to touch on. In GT3 you could get away with full throttle almost every second of every race. This was so far from real it would make me sick to the point of turning the game off. In GT4 this has been addressed and now more than ever I can’t stress the need to learn proper throttle control. I can take this setup and run any track without any wheel spin based on throttle control alone. If you don’t learn anything else playing this game than learn throttle control as there are many more cars that will spin there wheels. Ones that will leave you sitting still as you roast the tires!


Thanks for the tips though, as I said above I will be revisiting the setup and I will look into the LSD Initial.

Edited in:
After reading my post again I think that it can be taking as me addressing Mr-Cat in a derogatory fashion. This is simply a case of the writen word not expressing sentiment. Sentiment in all its forms is a major part of day-to-day communication and it is all too easy to forget that it will not be conveyed in writing easily. So if I offended Mr-Cat in any way I apologize now. The intention of my post was to address several issues about GT4 that I felt no one has clearly discussed. Most of the above comment was meant to do just that and Mr-Cat’s comment was structured in such a way as to allow me to do so. If you look closer you will notice that I only used parts of his comment (indicated by 3 periods) and that in fact I reorganized it so that it would flow better. So actually I greatly appreciate Mr-Cat not only making the comment but also the way he worded it.

After reading my post above again I felt that it could be misinterpreted as me addressing Mr-Cat in a derogatory fashion. This is simply a case of the writen word not expressing sentiment.

Sentiment in all its forms is a major part of day-to-day communication and it is all too easy to forget that it will not be conveyed in writing easily. So if I offended Mr-Cat in any way I apologize now. The intention of my post was to address several issues about GT4 that I felt no one has clearly discussed. Most of my comment was meant to do just that and Mr-Cat’s comment was structured in such a way as to allow me the opportunity. If you look closer you will notice that I only used parts of his comment (indicated by 3 periods) and that in fact I reorganized it so that it would flow better with what I wanted to say.

Right on, there will always be differences in the way tuners approach cars. That is the strongest part of GTVault, it really doesn’t matter how you like your cars since there is bound to be someone here that does justice for you.

If you don’t mind the advice about your truck I would like to make a suggestion. It is true that trucks weigh more than cars (yes I know there are exceptions) however the difference is in the build. In an FR car the weight will be around 60/40 or so front/back. In a truck you are looking more at an 80/20 split. Think about it for a minute, if a truck is stuck in snow what can you do? Dig out the tires or in most cases just add weight to the back. Where does the fuel cell sit? See where I am going?

You should turn the ASM off and reduce the TCS but add weight to the rear. This will have the overall effect of slowing the truck down some but it will be much better than using ASM and TCS hand-in-hand. I would suggest starting with 100lbs at 40%. Try to get the weight just past the point where the rear wheels would be in real life; and trucks have a very long back after the wheels.

Well I revisited this thing and I am still very happy with it, even after three laps I was showing green on the S3’s front and back and it all seemed a very even green. As for the LSD Initial I could not find a need to change it.

does anyone knows a good setup for the cizeta 16T. I am not a good tuner, I just like to race good balanced cars, but so far I have been able to mannage well, but I am going crazy with this car. I must say that the car dissapointed me a lot, sometimes we can not judge the car for its looks.

Wow, a Driving Force Pro specific setup that handles well on the Dual Shock 2? "Nooooo...", you might say. In fact, it's true! Nice job DTW, I think you've found the happy medium you were searching for. I applied this setup without the benefit (or defecit) of a spoiler, so downforce was unadjustable. It still worked brilliantly, though. A little tight around fast sweeping right handers, but nothing a little throttle lift didn't cure. 1'31.240 at Infineon(Sports Car)